In the organic textile supply chain, chemical inputs and accessories play a critical role in processing, manufacturing, and finishing. To ensure these materials meet strict environmental and health requirements, GOTS introduced a formal mechanism known as the Letter of Approval (LoA).
A GOTS Letter of Approval confirms that specific chemical inputs or accessories are permitted for use in GOTS-certified textile production. This article breaks down the key takeaways, requirements, structure, and compliance expectations in a clear, SEO-friendly format for manufacturers, chemical suppliers, brands, and sustainability professionals.
What Is a GOTS Letter of Approval?
A Letter of Approval is an official document issued by an approved Certification Body confirming that:
Specific colourants, textile auxiliaries, or accessories meet GOTS input criteria
The approved items may be used in GOTS-certified processing or manufacturing
It is important to understand:
Inputs and accessories are approved, not certified
Chemical suppliers do not become GOTS-certified entities
Approval applies only to listed trade names and declared uses
This distinction prevents misuse of certification terminology and protects supply chain integrity.
Why Letters of Approval Are Important
Letters of Approval ensure that:
Only evaluated and compliant chemical inputs are used in organic textile production
Hazardous substances are excluded or tightly controlled
Processors and manufacturers can demonstrate compliance during audits
Brands and buyers gain confidence in chemical management practices
Without valid Letters of Approval, the use of chemical inputs in GOTS production may result in non-compliance.
Who Can Apply for a Letter of Approval?
Letters of Approval are issued to:
Chemical formulators.
Chemical suppliers.
Accessory manufacturers.
Key rules include:
Traders or distributors may apply only if the original formulator already holds approval.
Each applicant must apply using their own unique trade names.
Chemical inputs and accessories require separate Letters of Approval.
This ensures traceability back to the original formulation and assessment.
Validity and Lifecycle of a Letter of Approval
Letters of Approval are linked to a specific version of the GOTS Standard.
When a new standard version comes into force, approvals issued under the previous version automatically expire.
Certification Bodies may assign a shorter validity period based on risk.
During standard transition periods, a company may hold two valid Letters of Approval, each aligned with a different standard version.
This structure ensures approvals remain aligned with the latest sustainability requirements.
Format and Security Requirements
To maintain trust and consistency:
Letters of Approval must follow a standardised template.
They may be issued in paper or secure digital format.
Digital versions must be issued as secure PDFs.
Each Certification Body must define authentication and verification methods.
The GOTS logo is not permitted on Letters of Approval.
These controls prevent document misuse and misrepresentation.
What Information Appears on the First Page
The first page of a Letter of Approval includes:
Certification Body name and address.
Unique Letter of Approval number.
Full name and address of the approved company.
Applicable GOTS standard version.
Validity end date.
Authorised signature, date, and Certification Body stamp.
Mandatory declarations regarding responsibility and withdrawal rights.
This page serves as the official summary of approval status.
Auditing Requirements for Chemical Formulators
For chemical inputs:
The Letter of Approval must state whether the formulator has been audited.
If audited, confirmation of product stewardship and environmental, health, and safety compliance is included.
If not audited, a declaration explains why an audit was not required.
Transitional wording may apply where on-site audits are scheduled but not yet completed.
Accessories do not require this audit declaration.
Approved Inputs and Accessories: What Gets Listed
Approved items are listed in structured tables that may span multiple pages. These tables include:
For Chemical Inputs
Colourants (dyestuffs and pigments).
Textile auxiliaries such as:
Spinning additives.
Sizing and desizing agents.
Pre-treatment chemicals.
Dyeing and printing auxiliaries.
Finishing agents.
Basic substances (such as salt or caustic soda) are not required to be listed.
For Accessories
Buttons.
Zippers.
Sewing threads.
Embroidery yarns.
Padding and components.
If a company supplies both chemicals and accessories, two separate Letters of Approval are mandatory.
Key Data Captured for Each Approved Item
Each approved input or accessory includes:
Serial number.
Exact trade name (as per Safety Data Sheet).
Type or intended use.
Date of approval.
Safety Data Sheet date.
Mandatory comments or restrictions.
Total number of approved items listed.
This ensures clarity, accuracy, and traceability.
Restrictions and Mandatory Declarations
Certain inputs require explicit restrictions, such as:
Copper content disclosure for specific dye shades.
AOX limits for pigments.
Usage conditions for synthetic sizes and finishing agents.
Prohibition of certain applications even when the input itself is approved.
Use limitations for accessories such as polyurethane foam.
These restrictions must be followed exactly during production.
Sites Appendix for Formulators
For formulators, an additional appendix may list:
All audited production sites
Locations verified for compliance with safety and stewardship requirements
This adds another layer of transparency and accountability.
Common Compliance Mistakes to Avoid
Referring to chemical inputs as “GOTS certified”.
Using unlisted trade names.
Applying approvals across different standard versions.
Using approved inputs for prohibited applications.
Failing to renew approvals after standard updates.
Mixing accessories and chemical inputs under one Letter of Approval.
Avoiding these errors is essential for audit readiness.
Final Takeaway
GOTS Letters of Approval are a cornerstone of responsible chemical management in organic textile production. They ensure that only evaluated, compliant, and restricted inputs enter certified supply chains. For chemical suppliers, manufacturers, and brands, understanding and correctly applying Letters of Approval is not optional—it is essential for maintaining certification, protecting environmental integrity, and meeting buyer expectations.