Accurate classification of materials, processes, and products is the backbone of transparency and traceability in the organic textile industry. To ensure consistency across certification, reporting, and audits, GOTS introduced a harmonised Materials, Processes, and Products Classification framework. This classification system is not designed for marketing or labelling. Instead, it provides a structured and standardized way to describe what materials are used, how they are processed, and what products are produced on Scope Certificates and Transaction Certificates.
Why This Classification Matters
The classification framework was created to:
Standardize how materials, processes, and products are reported
Eliminate inconsistent terminology across certificates
Improve traceability and audit efficiency
Align reporting across multiple sustainability standards
Support regulatory and due-diligence requirements
By using a common language, certified organizations reduce misinterpretation and strengthen trust across the supply chain.
Who Should Use This Classification System?
While primarily developed for certification bodies, the framework is also highly relevant for:
Organic cotton producers
Textile processors and manufacturers
Yarn, fabric, and garment suppliers
Traders and buying houses
Brands and retailers
Sustainability, compliance, and audit teams
Any organization listed on a Scope Certificate or Transaction Certificate benefits from understanding how classifications are applied.
Core Structure of the Classification Framework
The framework is built around four interlinked pillars:
Raw Materials
Process Categories
Product Categories
Product Details
These elements are designed to be complementary and must be considered together when reporting certified activities.
Raw Materials: Clear Identification with Attributes
Each raw material is listed individually and may carry specific attributes that define its certification or sourcing status.
Common Raw Material Categories
Plant-based fibres (e.g. cotton, hemp, flax)
Animal-based fibres (e.g. wool, silk, cashmere)
Synthetic fibres
Regenerated cellulosic fibres
Inorganic and miscellaneous materials
Raw Material Attributes
Attributes may include:
Organic
In-conversion
Recycled (pre-consumer or post-consumer)
Sustainably sourced
Responsible sourcing
Content claimed
Only materials that are certified for a specific attribute may be reported with that attribute. Materials without certification must be listed without attributes.
The framework also allows a controlled “Other” category for materials not explicitly listed, provided they are clearly defined in generic terms.
Process Categories: Defining What Happens to the Material
Process categories describe what activities are performed on materials or products at each facility.
Examples include:
Ginning.
Spinning.
Knitting.
Weaving.
Dyeing.
Printing.
Finishing.
Manufacturing.
Trading.
Warehousing.
Retail sales.
Each process category clearly defines whether:
Processing takes place.
Physical possession of goods occurs.
The activity is suitable for processors, traders, or non-processing entities.
This clarity ensures that facilities are correctly classified and audited.
Product Categories: High-Level Product Grouping
Product categories describe what type of product is produced or traded.
Examples include:
Apparel (men’s, women’s, children’s, unisex)
Home textiles
Accessories
Footwear
Bedding
Fabrics and yarns
Industrial and technical textiles
Personal care and hygiene products
Packaging and paper products
Product categories provide a structured overview without going into item-level detail.
Product Details: Precise Description of Outputs
Product details add granularity to product categories, specifying exactly what the product is.
Examples include:
T-shirts, shirts, dresses, trousers.
Knitted fabrics, woven fabrics, denim fabrics.
Dyed yarns, greige yarns, sewing threads.
Towels, bed linen, curtains.
Bags, zippers, labels, buttons.
Raw fibres, lint cotton, tops, comber noil.
Product details ensure accuracy while avoiding brand-specific or marketing terminology.
Use of User-Specific Terms: Flexibility with Control
The classification allows limited flexibility through User-Specific Terms when standard terms are too general.
However, strict rules apply:
User-specific terms must remain generic
Trade names, brand names, and program names are prohibited
Classification codes must always be used alongside custom terms
Raw material names generally cannot be replaced by user-specific terms
This balance allows precision without compromising consistency.
Organic Standards Recognition
The framework includes a recognized list of organic farming standards accepted for certified raw materials. This ensures that farm-level inputs align with globally recognized organic principles and supports consistent reporting across regions.
Reporting Framework: From Fibre to Finished Product
The classification supports structured reporting across five levels:
Fibre or raw material
Yarn
Fabric
Product
Reclaimed or recycled materials
This layered approach strengthens chain-of-custody verification and supports both Scope Certificates and Transaction Certificates.
What the Classification Is NOT Used For
It is important to note that this framework:
Is not intended for consumer labelling.
Does not define marketing claims.
Does not replace regulatory requirements.
Does not certify individual product units.
Its sole purpose is accurate certification and reporting.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Mixing marketing terms with classification terms
Using uncertified attributes for raw materials.
Applying incorrect process categories.
Overusing user-specific terms.
Treating product details as label claims.
Listing incomplete or mismatched material-process-product combinations.
Avoiding these errors improves audit outcomes and certification reliability.
Final Takeaway
The Materials, Processes, and Products Classification framework is a critical foundation for credible organic textile certification. By standardizing how materials, processes, and products are described, it strengthens transparency, traceability, and trust across the supply chain. For producers, manufacturers, traders, and brands, understanding and correctly applying this classification is not just a technical requirement—it is a key compliance responsibility in a sustainability-driven global market.